THE NOSTALGIA OF BANANA DAIQIRIS

Sir Cliff Richard wrote in his foreword to Hotel Barbados, My Life of Discretion at the Ocean View the following:

How I wish I had been able to stay at Ocean View.

Of course, our world always changes and we have to move on and progress with those changes. Barbados has done that admirably and so have we who visit and live here. Personally, I have few complaints about today’s new world, but once in a while I get the feeling deep down that I maybe missed something very special and beautiful from those bygone days. I have a feeling that having read this book, you’ll know just what I mean.

In 1982, our Spring Break trip overlapped for one week with my Mom and Dad’s annual sojourn in Barbados. For many years, my Father had waxed poetic about the historic Ocean View Hotel (opened in 1898), …

 … its glorious architecture and funnily enough, its banana daiquiris.

Nothing would do, but we four were to meet Mom and Dad at the Ocean View for a visit to one of the oldest hotels in the Caribbean, daiquiris on the hotel veranda…

… and then lunch in the dining room. I will cut this story short by saying that when drinks were ordered, the waiter gave my Father the sad news that they had no bananas. Dad was crestfallen.

Cut to 1983. This year, I am convinced that my parents’ time in Barbados was deliberately coordinated to overlap with our week on the island just so my Dad could complete our daiquiri experience at the Ocean View. The waiter began again to sadly explain that, I am sorry, Sir, but … It was in that instant that I noticed the small paper bag discreetly sitting beside my Father’s chair. Before the waiter could complete his apology, my Father lifted his little paper bag from the floor announcing, Actually, you now DO have bananas. The drinks were awesome. You were right, Dad!

In was also on that day in 1983, that Jim and I wandered down for a peek into the Crystal Room with its view over the  Caribbean. The dining table was set in the full splendour of fine china, gleaming silver and sparkling crystal. Two liveried waiters informed Jim and I that we could not enter as the Prime Minister and his cabinet were due at any moment for their weekly Monday business luncheon.

That luncheon was not to happen. Beloved Prime Minister, Tom Adams, never made it to that meeting; he succumbed to a massive heart attack at his home, plunging Barbados into deep mourning.

My Father passed away in 1987, after which Jim and I were never able to bring ourselves to visit the Ocean View again. So much history! So many memories! In 1996 the hotel closed.

While in Barbados this year, we discovered that a book had just been published about the Ocean View. Eager to read more history about this grand old lady and to enjoy photos from her past, Jim wrote to the Bajan publishers. Our copy of this treasure arrived today.

It is at moments such as this I realize how enriched our lives have been, the history we have witnessed and the memories we have created in over forty years of travel to Barbados. I also cherish the fact that Barbados is now truly as much Jim’s island in the sun as mine.

REMINDING MYSELF…

In the early 1980’s Jim had the epitome of the ugly American grouse at him that he hated Barbados…..”they have let too many blacks on the island”.  Within an instant, my husband’s face took on the visage of a dark, threatening storm cloud. “They were here before you”, he thundered and stomped away. How close that bigot came to personal injury he will never know.

Last year, on Barbados’ 55th anniversary of independence from the United Kingdom, the nation severed ties with the British monarchy, at long last transitioning to a republic. At the time a few friends commented on how sad it was that Barbados had taken this final step to sovereignty. A Jamaican Canadian warned me that Barbados could go the route of Jamaica. I don’t think so. I can appreciate all of their comments, but strongly disagree.

Barbados has finally broken its ties with the source of its brutal history, one of economic rape and slavery; it has taken the step in severing its ugly colonial past. Even Prince Charles alluded to this fact during last November’s ceremony referring to “the appalling atrocity of slavery that forever stains our history”. I get it Barbados. I understand why and I applaud you.

I find it easy to forget the island’s slavery beginnings. Barbadians are an educated people. In fact, Barbados now enjoys one of the highest standards of living and literacy rates in the world. There is a large, stable middle class. Bajans are a warm, welcoming, generally happy people. From early childhood, they learn in school how important tourism is for their country economically; this understanding shines through in contacts with we interlopers. And the country is generally safe. No large gated communities or all-inclusives are necessary to keep you safely enclosed and away from the general population. No tourist buses have been stopped and robbed at gunpoint. Travel around the island is encouraged. Meet our people! Explore our sites! And don’t be frightened if you are honked at in your rental car. Frequently when Bajans see the “H”designation on a hired car, they will honk in welcome. Walking to a restaurant after dark is not fraught with danger. I love to tell the tale of my mother and her sister, both well into their 80’s, walking The Gap road, little flashlights lighting their way, as they headed from Casuarina Resort to TGI Boomers to sit in the bar with locals and watch the Super Bowl. 😂  And Bajan leader, Mia Motley? She is considered one of the finest minds in the free world.

But it is too easy for me to take for granted the fine nation that Barbados has become as its brutal past of slavery is not continually shoved in one’s face. However, gentle reminders that the great wealth of the U.K  and New World was in part based on the sugar cane and rum provided by the blood, tears and death of thousands and thousands of enslaved Africans, are to be found everywhere.

The sculpture that moves me most is the Emancipation Statue which symbolizes the breaking of the chains of slavery. I can feel the joyous emotion in the statue.

Walking the historic streets and docks of UNESCO site, Bridgetown, plaques can be found, their words fracturing my heart.

And for those who wish to visit the statue of Lord Nelson, don’t bother…..it has been removed. As an elderly Bajan gentleman explained to Jim and I last Friday, “He did nothing for Barbados”.

Finally, for those who care to leave the sunshine for a few hours, Barbados’ fine museum guides you through the days of slavery to today.

My Grandfather’s family arrival in Barbados can be traced back to the late 1600’s; my Grandmother’s, to the early 1700’s. That my family most likely owned slaves leaves me deeply ashamed, an emotion I cannot shake.

I could go on endlessly about Barbados’ painful history, but I will leave that to the historians. I do need, though, to remind myself of those darker times to fully appreciate how far Barbadians have come in creating the incredible nation of today who invites visitors to join in their bounty and beauty. Out of the darkness into a bright future. “This is my island in the sun.”