Last year, on Barbados’ 55th anniversary of independence from the United Kingdom, the nation severed ties with the British monarchy, at long last transitioning to a republic. At the time a few friends commented on how sad it was that Barbados had taken this final step to sovereignty. A Jamaican Canadian warned me that Barbados could go the route of Jamaica. I don’t think so. I can appreciate all of their comments, but strongly disagree.
Barbados has finally broken its ties with the source of its brutal history, one of economic rape and slavery; it has taken the step in severing its ugly colonial past. Even Prince Charles alluded to this fact during last November’s ceremony referring to “the appalling atrocity of slavery that forever stains our history”. I get it Barbados. I understand why and I applaud you.
I find it easy to forget the island’s slavery beginnings. Barbadians are an educated people. In fact, Barbados now enjoys one of the highest standards of living and literacy rates in the world. There is a large, stable middle class. Bajans are a warm, welcoming, generally happy people. From early childhood, they learn in school how important tourism is for their country economically; this understanding shines through in contacts with we interlopers. And the country is generally safe. No large gated communities or all-inclusives are necessary to keep you safely enclosed and away from the general population. No tourist buses have been stopped and robbed at gunpoint. Travel around the island is encouraged. Meet our people! Explore our sites! And don’t be frightened if you are honked at in your rental car. Frequently when Bajans see the “H”designation on a hired car, they will honk in welcome. Walking to a restaurant after dark is not fraught with danger. I love to tell the tale of my mother and her sister, both well into their 80’s, walking The Gap road, little flashlights lighting their way, as they headed from Casuarina Resort to TGI Boomers to sit in the bar with locals and watch the Super Bowl. 😂 And Bajan leader, Mia Motley? She is considered one of the finest minds in the free world.
But it is too easy for me to take for granted the fine nation that Barbados has become as its brutal past of slavery is not continually shoved in one’s face. However, gentle reminders that the great wealth of the U.K and New World was in part based on the sugar cane and rum provided by the blood, tears and death of thousands and thousands of enslaved Africans, are to be found everywhere.
The sculpture that moves me most is the Emancipation Statue which symbolizes the breaking of the chains of slavery. I can feel the joyous emotion in the statue.
Walking the historic streets and docks of UNESCO site, Bridgetown, plaques can be found, their words fracturing my heart.
And for those who wish to visit the statue of Lord Nelson, don’t bother…..it has been removed. As an elderly Bajan gentleman explained to Jim and I last Friday, “He did nothing for Barbados”.
Finally, for those who care to leave the sunshine for a few hours, Barbados’ fine museum guides you through the days of slavery to today.
My Grandfather’s family arrival in Barbados can be traced back to the late 1600’s; my Grandmother’s, to the early 1700’s. That my family most likely owned slaves leaves me deeply ashamed, an emotion I cannot shake.
I could go on endlessly about Barbados’ painful history, but I will leave that to the historians. I do need, though, to remind myself of those darker times to fully appreciate how far Barbadians have come in creating the incredible nation of today who invites visitors to join in their bounty and beauty. Out of the darkness into a bright future. “This is my island in the sun.”
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